Wednesday, September 23, 2026

Faroe Islands - Day 8

We hadn't intended to do two boat tours on this day, but in the "Land of Maybe" you take what you're given. When the weather cooperates, you take advantage. We left the campground at Torshavn and headed west, back over through a subsea tunnel to the island of Vagar. Past the airport, we found the village of Sorvagur and stopped at the local Magn for a second coffee and a pastry.

We also hadn't planned on doing two RIB boat tours - we thought the first tour was of the regular variety. We found when we arrived at Blue Gate tours in the Sorvagur harbour, and they handed us suits to put on. Time to suit up!

This tour took us out from Sorvagur to the head of the fjord, past the village of Bour and a beautiful waterfall cascading into the sea. We saw seals and even a few puffins still hanging around. Across the fjord, we circled the jagged island of Tindholmur and then the Drangarnir sea arch, waiting for just the right moment in the waves and tide to make our way UNDER the huge stone arch. 

We made our way back along the far shore to the harbour, where we disembarked and doffed our gear.  Climbing back into the van, we traversed the width of Vagar eastward and back over to Streymoy island, following the scenic roads down to the Gamlaraett ferry port. Arriving early, we made ham sandwiches in the parking lot while awaiting our RIB62 experience. 

And they did not disappoint, in what was a top-two experience of the entire trip. This time we donned suits AND visored helmets before jetting off across the water to the towering cliffs of the island of Hestur. Our guide Aron took us up the east side and around the top end, where we could also glimpse nearby Koltur island, before the tour began in earnest down the imposing and wave-sculpted western edge. 

We skirted the rocks, in and out of inlets, and finally entered the world largest sea cave, Klaemintsgjogv.....through one of its THREE entrances. It was a surreal experience, between the imposing cliffs loomed high above, and the eerie and gurgling silence in the caves, punctuated by the occasional crash of the surf on the rocks. Seabirds were everywhere, fulmars and gannets and black-backed gulls....and of course, sheep dining in places where it made no sense at all.

At the urging of the small group, Aron also had some fun on the way back to the harbour, showing us the speed and angles this rib boat could really handle.

Windswept and weary with salt-splashed faces, we drove back to Torshavn and returned to the campground for another night, markedly quieter this evening after the ferry departure to Iceland. While Jane rested in the van, I walked downtown for a few pints at the Mikkeller Pub before making my way back to seaside and slumber.

Driving west to Vagar for the day's first boat tour

Rainbow over Sorvagsfjordur

Suit up!

Skardsafossur waterfall


Drangarnir sea arch


Just passing through....


Tindholmur island

The road to Gamlaraett....and RIB62!


Our rib boat awaits

Aron scans the waves

Koltur island



Circling the island of Hestur




Klaemintsgjogv sea cave



One great day!


Tuesday, September 22, 2026

Faroe Islands - Day 7

Leaving Aeduvik, we found free parking on the outskirts of Torshavn (Thor's Harbour) and decided to spend the day on foot and walk into town and around. We started off by following the water down to the harbour, and the old Skansin fortress. Around for nearly 500 years protecting this vital harbour, the fort gained a few cannons and some British soldiers during World War II.

Today, the harbour bustles with fishing vessels, ferries and pleasure craft old and new. One can ferry to nearby Nolsoy island, further afield to far-flung Suduroy, or even catch a weekly ferry that runs between Denmark and Iceland with a stop in Torshavn. All of the European camper vans and motorcycles we have seen during our visit arrive and depart on the Norrona.

Around the harbour we found the Faroese parliament, a historic site called Tinganes out on a rock on the headland. With vivid red buildings and turf roofs, it is one of the oldest parliamentary meeting places in the world. We even passed the Prime Minister's door!

Downtown we found coffee and pastries at Paname Cafe, then wandered next door into the bookshop where we found some puffin mugs and a book about the islands called "The Land of Maybe" for some future reading about real-life in the Faroes.

Meandering uptown to the SMS Mall and back down, we later found lunch at an Irish Pub back at the harbour, for a delicious burger and some local brews. Later still, after we set up at the Torshavn campground, we found the epic old Mikkeller Pub in the older part of the downtown, complete with sod roof and lots of local beer on tap.

Wandering back to the campground, we had a tea and shared a simple but delicious dinner of boil-in-bag spaghetti. A lot of the friends we had made over the past week were also staying at the campground, as many fellow travelers were heading onto Iceland in the morning aboard the Norrona, and we bid them safe travels until next time.....including the Spaniard on the motorcycle that we had seen at four different campgrounds!

We spent a particularly windy night with the gusts buffeting the van. As the storm raged without, Jane weathered a gall bladder attack within for a decidedly rocky night.

Skansin Fortress

Protecting Torshavn Harbour

Tinganes Parliament


The PM's Office, right off the cobblestone street!


Torshavn Harbour - ferries and fishing boats



Breakfast at Paname Cafe


Lunch at the Irish Pub



Mikkeller - one of the cooler pubs we've seen!

A warm pub atmosphere

A simple dinner back at the campground


Sunday, September 20, 2026

Faroe Islands - Day 6

With rain forecast everywhere in the Faroes, the decision was made to make it a driving day. After a casual start with breakfast and showers at the Eidi campground, we stopped in Nordskali at the Magn gas station for coffee before heading up the other side of the fjord on a single-lane road to visit Fossa.

Passing back across the Nordskali bridge, we took the mountain tunnel and continued east, taking another mountain tunnel to Leirvik before using a subsea tunnel to cross to the island of Bordoy and the town of Klaksvik, second largest "city" in the Faroes. Passing through, we continued northeast through more tunnels until we crossed the causeway to the island of Vidoy. One more tunnel saved us the "old route" around the cliff, and before long we were exploring the scenic village of Vidareidi.

After checking out Vidareidi and the bird and rabbit sanctuary partway out the old shore road, we returned through the tunnel and back across the bridge to Bordoy, traversing the island to take another causeway to the island of Kunoy. This island has about 3 km of road, and a 3km dark single-lane tunnel through the mountain to the village of the same name.

We walked around the village in the rain and used the public washroom at the local campsite, though it was closed for the season for camping. Across the water to the west, we could see the rugged island of Kalsoy, which we would visit in the coming days for an epic hike.

Retracing our way back through the dark tunnel, including several pullout stops for oncoming traffic, we meandered back across the causeway to Bordoy and down to Klaksvik for some excellent fish and chips at NOA in the harbour, right by the ferry terminal to Kalsoy. NOA has two parts, a food truck that sells the food and a small dining building where you can eat out of the rain. Judging by the locals lined up, a lot of their business is takeout. 

We took our leftovers and made the drive back through numerous tunnels to Aeduvik campground. In the rain, the camp was much busier, with several other vans, a number of tenters and a group of motorcyslists all huddling in the common area. We had a simple dinner of leftover fish, fresh bread and a boil-in-bag stew.

Fossa waterfall




Causeway between Bordoy and Vidoy



Tunnel to Vidareidi



Vidareidi village



Leitisgardur bird and bunny sanctuary


Looking back at Vidareidi


Tunnel back to Bordoy


Just another roadside waterfall....



Kunoy island across the water


Causeway to Kunoy


Dark single-lane tunnel to Kunoy village


Kunoy village at the end of the road


Klaksvik harbour

NOA Fish and Chips


Dinner at Aeduvik campground