Saturday, September 19, 2026

Faroe Islands - Day 4

Given the local weather forecast, today we decided to chase the sun. Using the Foroyar Live weather app, we could see that the southern island of Sandoy alone was predicted to have some sun......just a few subsea tunnels away!

We made breakfast and coffee in the Aeduvik kitchen. After spending an annoying hour on the phone with our bank, to iron out some issues with their travel card security measures, we set out and retraced our route back to Runavik. We grabbed some Faroese kronur from an ATM, as cash was the expected form of payment at a lot of campsites this late in the season where staff were no longer present - put in an envelope and dropped in a box on the honour system.

From there, we zipped back through the Jellyfish Roundabout and took the subsea tunnel back to Streymoy (toll about $37 CDN each time), where we skirted the capital Torshavn and made our way to the southwest coast of the island. At the old ferry port to the island of Sandoy, an 11 km subsea tunnel had just opened in 2024 to make commuting a more feasible reality for Sandoy residents, dropping over 500 feet (155 m) below the water before arcing back up to the island. It was a steep toll of 350 DKK (about $75 CDN), but at least that included the return to "mainland" Streymoy.

We stopped in Sandur for some souvenirs and a local hotdog, an upright experience that was new to us but timely and delicious. After exploring the town a little and the local campsite, we opted to take a narrow road up over the mountain to the southern tip of the island, where through another mountain tunnel lay the small village of Dalur ("valley" in Faroese) where we would camp for the night. 

And what a scenic valley it was. By the time we arrived, the light drizzle had abated and the promised sunshine was waiting. After exploring the village, we started a hike up a farmer's trail to a waterfall, with the vistas behind becoming ever more stunning as we climbed. Unfortunately, Jane felt the makings of a migraine coming on, so we erred on the side of caution and started back down rapidly while she could. Luckily we made it back to the van and got some meds into her before the worst set in.

While she napped in the van, I enjoyed the sea air and sounds while re-reading "The Sword of Shannara" and poring over maps to plan out our future days. When Jane eventually stirred, we had an easy dinner of boil-in-bag chili macaroni. After having had the campsite to ourselves all day, a young German couple in a camper van arrived to share the scenic spot.

Easy breakfast in Aeduvik 

Kronur for Kampsites!


Back through the Jellyfish Roundabout

The hairpin down to Gamlaraett ferry port

The entrance to Sandoyartunnilin

Deep beneath the sea!

Artwork in the tunnels to keep them interesting

Exploring the village of Sandur

Sandur harbour

Faroese hot dogs!

The road to Dalur....

...single lane in spots with blind curves!


Mountain tunnel to Dalur

Dalur village

Our campsite for the night!



A hike up the hill and a look back at the van way back down by the harbour

The rocky beach at the campground

Jane naps! Mike reads!

Easy dinner!


Faroe Islands - Day 3

Jane was up early and made coffee and oatmeal in the hostel kitchen while befriending cyclists from Wales and Scotland. I got up a little later and joined them for breakfast, before we headed out in a light rain to backtrack back past the airport.

We passed through Sorvagur then followed the coast out past the village of Bour, winding up towards the 3km single lane tunnel through the mountain to Gasadalur. Traffic was mercifully light and we emerged on the other side staring down into a deep green valley with one small village (Gasadalur) at the end of the road. Before the tunnel, the only way in was a trail up and over the mountain.

We visited the famous Mulafossar waterfall, stunning and famous for a reason. Afterwards, we walked back up the village and had coffee and carrot cake at a local cafe, before heading back up the mountain and through the tunnel. We drove the length of Vagar, past many waterfalls that appeared in the rain as giant rivulets tumbling down rocky green valleys.

Taking our first subsea tunnel, the 5km long Vagatunnilin, we passed under the strait and popped back out on Streymoy, the next island to the east. In the rain, we carried on across Streymoy and took the larger and more expensive Eysturoyatunnilin toll tunnel, 11km of road beneath the sea connecting to two different parts of the island of Eysturoy. More famously, it also contains the world's first underwater traffic circle, a colourful bit of Nordic engineering known as the "Jellyfish Roundabout".

We opted for the Runavik exit from the roundabout, and were soon back above water and making a quick stop at the Bonus in Runavik for fresh bread and more snacks - namely Bugles and Gardschips piri piri and roasted garlic!  

A short distance south of town, we followed a single-lane road up over the hills and past the ubiquitous sheep to the campground at Aeduvik. We had the place almost to ourselves, sharing this great spot with one other couple in a campervan from Switzerland, and an entertaining motorcyclist from Spain. Jane made pasta with another of our Bonus purchases, the delicious Dolmio spicy bolognese sauce that we have enjoyed on other Scandinavian visits.

Settling in for the night, we enjoyed reading in the back of the van (thanks to the 360-degree swivel front seats!) to the soothing sounds of the sea crashing on the rocks below.

Village of Bour

The road to Gasadalur


Single-lane tunnel through the mountain



The mountain tunnel we just came through!


Magnificent Mulafossar!




Gasadalur village
Fiercely Faroese!

Jane walking back to the village and the van

Subsea tunnel between Vagar and Streymoy





Subsea tunnel and roundabout between Streymoy and Eysturoy

The Jellyfish Roundabout beneath the ocean!


Campsite at Aeduvik

Time to chillax!