The Beatings Will Continue Until Morale Improves...

Tuesday, September 22, 2026

Faroe Islands - Day 7

Leaving Aeduvik, we found free parking on the outskirts of Torshavn (Thor's Harbour) and decided to spend the day on foot and walk into town and around. We started off by following the water down to the harbour, and the old Skansin fortress. Around for nearly 500 years protecting this vital harbour, the fort gained a few cannons and some British soldiers during World War II.

Today, the harbour bustles with fishing vessels, ferries and pleasure craft old and new. One can ferry to nearby Nolsoy island, further afield to far-flung Suduroy, or even catch a weekly ferry that runs between Denmark and Iceland with a stop in Torshavn. All of the European camper vans and motorcycles we have seen during our visit arrive and depart on the Norrona.

Around the harbour we found the Faroese parliament, a historic site called Tinganes out on a rock on the headland. With vivid red buildings and turf roofs, it is one of the oldest parliamentary meeting places in the world. We even passed the Prime Minister's door!

Downtown we found coffee and pastries at Paname Cafe, then wandered next door into the bookshop where we found some puffin mugs and a book about the islands called "The Land of Maybe" for some future reading about real-life in the Faroes.

Meandering uptown to the SMS Mall and back down, we later found lunch at an Irish Pub back at the harbour, for a delicious burger and some local brews. Later still, after we set up at the Torshavn campground, we found the epic old Mikkeller Pub in the older part of the downtown, complete with sod roof and lots of local beer on tap.

Wandering back to the campground, we had a tea and shared a simple but delicious dinner of boil-in-bag spaghetti. A lot of the friends we had made over the past week were also staying at the campground, as many fellow travelers were heading onto Iceland in the morning aboard the Norrona, and we bid them safe travels until next time.....including the Spaniard on the motorcycle that we had seen at four different campgrounds!

We spent a particularly windy night with the gusts buffeting the van. As the storm raged without, Jane weathered a gall bladder attack within for a decidedly rocky night.

Skansin Fortress

Protecting Torshavn Harbour

Tinganes Parliament

The PM's Office, right off the cobblestone street!

Torshavn Harbour - ferries and fishing boats

Breakfast at Paname Cafe

Lunch at the Irish Pub

Mikkeller - one of the cooler pubs we've seen!

A warm pub atmosphere

A simple dinner back at the campground

Sunday, September 20, 2026

Faroe Islands - Day 6

With rain forecast everywhere in the Faroes, the decision was made to make it a driving day. After a casual start with breakfast and showers at the Eidi campground, we stopped in Nordskali at the Magn gas station for coffee before heading up the other side of the fjord on a single-lane road to visit Fossa.

Passing back across the Nordskali bridge, we took the mountain tunnel and continued east, taking another mountain tunnel to Leirvik before using a subsea tunnel to cross to the island of Bordoy and the town of Klaksvik, second largest "city" in the Faroes. Passing through, we continued northeast through more tunnels until we crossed the causeway to the island of Vidoy. One more tunnel saved us the "old route" around the cliff, and before long we were exploring the scenic village of Vidareidi.

After checking out Vidareidi and the bird and rabbit sanctuary partway out the old shore road, we returned through the tunnel and back across the bridge to Bordoy, traversing the island to take another causeway to the island of Kunoy. This island has about 3 km of road, and a 3km dark single-lane tunnel through the mountain to the village of the same name.

We walked around the village in the rain and used the public washroom at the local campsite, though it was closed for the season for camping. Across the water to the west, we could see the rugged island of Kalsoy, which we would visit in the coming days for an epic hike.

Retracing our way back through the dark tunnel, including several pullout stops for oncoming traffic, we meandered back across the causeway to Bordoy and down to Klaksvik for some excellent fish and chips at NOA in the harbour, right by the ferry terminal to Kalsoy. NOA has two parts, a food truck that sells the food and a small dining building where you can eat out of the rain. Judging by the locals lined up, a lot of their business is takeout.

We took our leftovers and made the drive back through numerous tunnels to Aeduvik campground. In the rain, the camp was much busier, with several other vans, a number of tenters and a group of motorcyslists all huddling in the common area. We had a simple dinner of leftover fish, fresh bread and a boil-in-bag stew.

Fossa waterfall

Causeway between Bordoy and Vidoy

Tunnel to Vidareidi

Vidareidi village

Leitisgardur bird and bunny sanctuary

Looking back at Vidareidi

Tunnel back to Bordoy

Just another roadside waterfall....

Kunoy island across the water

Causeway to Kunoy

Dark single-lane tunnel to Kunoy village

Kunoy village at the end of the road

Klaksvik harbour

NOA Fish and Chips

Dinner at Aeduvik campground

Faroe Islands - Day 5

Starting out from Dalur village after coffee and breakfast, we made the trek back to northern Sandoy, including the sketchy one-lane stretch between a cliff face and an ocean below. Back at the village of Sandur, we made a detour to check out the road to Soltavik, or at least as far as we felt comfortable going before the "road" got a little sketchy for the rental van.

Taking to long tunnel back to "mainland" Streymoy, we once again skirted Torshavn before taking a scenic mountain road northward, stopping to enjoy the stunning vista and the road down to Nordradalur. From there, we carried on to the north, choosing to cross the free bridge to Eysturoy at Nordskali rather than taking the expensive roundabout beneath the sea.

We stopped at Nordskali to grab coffee and lunch at the Magn - another hot dog! We also hit the local Bonus for replenishments and the Rusdrekkasola Landsins (state-run liquor store) for some more local Foroya beer. Passing through a long mountain tunnel behind a large group of bikers, we followed the main road in light rain until the turn for Oyndarfjordur. We took this road and a single-lane zig zag down into the fjord with high walls all around. Beautiful spot.

Back up and out to the main road, we took another road northward around a winding fjord, to the scenic village of Funningur. After exploring the village, we began the white-knuckle drive up and over on the single-lane switchback road high above. Oncoming traffic was merciful, so with minimal pullouts we arrived at the entry point for the Hvithamar hike.

In the wind, rain and mud, we soldiered on for a stunning overlook of the fjord and valley below, including Funningur itself and some perspective on the switchback road we just drove. After sating our eyes with the epic landscapes, we carried on up the road and make the 4km single-lane trek into Gjogv. Despite being at the end of a sketchy road, the village was teeming with people and parking was a challenge.

We explored the beautiful village and namesake harbour gorge, before deciding to get away from everyone. Extricating the van from the tight parking area took some teamwork and precision, but before long we were heading back out to the main road. We had planned to continue across the same mountain road to the village of Eidi, but the mountain pass was closed for roadwork except to "workers and sheep farmers". We were forced to retrace our way back down the switchback road and out to the main highway.

Back through the mountain tunnel near Nordskali, we turned north and made the drive to Eidi, where we would spend the night camping on an old soccer pitch perched scenically on the ocean. We even took the opportunity to plug in the van and recharge the camping battery.