Friday, May 29, 2026

East Coast 2026 - PEI

We left Halifax on a Sunday morning. The MacDonald Bridge was closed due to a marathon, with runners literally crossing the bridge as we drove under it and onto the MacKay Bridge instead to traverse The Narrows. Once clear of the city, a seamless run up the 102 saw us in Truro for gas and breakfast.

It was quite the experience. Between our negative experience at the local McDonald's - subject of a comically scathing review later by June at our behest - and watching a deer run down the main street and nearly out into traffic as I pumped gas - the second coffee was greatly needed by this point.

Given that our friends live on the eastern end of PEI, the ferry from Caribou to Wood Islands made more sense than the Confederation Bridge. On the way up to Caribou, another deer ran right out in front of us near the Pictou roundabout.....right AT a deer crossing sign!

After boarding the brand new MV Northumberland, which just came into service last year, Jane remarked that it felt a Norwegian ferry. Lo and behold, once we got looking around....it WAS a Norwegian ferry for the first part of its life before being brought over. We enjoyed a pleasant crossing under sunny skies, and just over an hour later we were speeding north towards Montague.

We had a good visit with our friends, including the obligatory dinner at Peake's Tee.....followed by a surprise deep-dish blueberry pie. Knowing that we were coming, apparently Kay asked her SIL Darlene at the restaurant to make one for us all to have for dessert.

We stayed local at the Riverside Inn, near to our friends but out of their hair for the night. We enjoyed our room and the serene balcony overlooking Montague harbour as sunset came....and still later with lights in the darkness over the fishing fleet.

The next morning, we squeezed in another good visit with Kay and Geoff (and Bibs and Wilson!) for breakfast and coffee, before bidding them farewell. The ferry was full on a holiday Monday, and we hadn't pre-booked since we didn't know how long we were staying. We took the Bridge instead, so we got a different tour of the Island as we wound our way back to Borden....and ended up sitting parked ON the ocean (gulf) for about 15 minutes as they had it reduced to one lane for resurfacing. 

Back briefly into a small corner of New Brunswick, we had a quick washroom and hotdog stop at the Irving before returning to Nova Scotia and making our way back to Halifax and the Harrows for a few more nights of fun. 

A deer ran across in front of us at the deer crossing sign near Pictou


The harbour at Caribou, NS

Boarding the MV Northumberland

Spot the Bronco!

Still closing the tailgate even as we sail away?!

Welcome to PEI!

Visiting with Bibs and Wilson

Thanks Darlene!

Montague harbour at sunset and dusk from our balcony vantage


Parked on the Confederation Bridge before the construction zone


Welcome to Nova Scotia....again!


East Coast 2026 - Halifax!

 We arrived in Halifax, set to spend five exciting nights in the heart of the downtown. We got a great deal on a two-bedroom apartment at the Cameo Suites on Barrington, right in the thick of the action. Once we got the car parked nearby, we unloaded our stuff and started exploring in earnest.

Over the next several days, we wandered down the hill to the waterfront numerous times. We explored two different farmer's markets, including one right inside the iconic Alexander Keith's Brewery. We strolled the Harbourwalk under intense sun and I actually got a bit of a sunburn.....in Halifax in May! Jane found a few Cows locations and June found all the shops. We did a lot of walking, up a lot of hills....and made a few grocery and booze runs to nearby establishments to stock the apartment.

For shade breaks, we frequented a number of establishments in the vicinity to replenish our fluids and continue to sample the local cuisine. Durty Nelly's became a fast favourite, as did The Old Triangle. It didn't hurt that the Montreal Canadiens playoff push had the whole town in a hockey frenzy. We also enjoyed the more chill Bearly's as well as a few other places in the general area of our accommodations.

We took the Harbour Hopper tour, which winds up the streets up old town Halifax before crashing into the ocean between the casino and the naval dockyards, for a boat tour along the shore. We also did the Halifax ghost walk with Dusty, starting up at the Old Town Clock and working our way down to the waterfront by dark, with numerous stories and history along the way. 

Of course, we had to tour The Citadel as well, the historic British fort perched atop the city complete with re-enactors in period costume. The Halifax Explosion of 1917 obviously also played prominently into several of our tours.

Leaving the Harrows to pub hop around the neighbourhood, we took the opportunity on a quiet Sunday morning to shoot off to Prince Edward Island for a quick visit with Kay and Geoff.....but we were back in Halifax by Monday night for a few more adventures in the wonderful city.

 

Crossing the MacDonald Bridge over The Narrows

Nova Scotia!

Great base camp at Cameo Suites on Barrington


One of our favourite pubs!



Drunken lampposts on the waterfront

Jane getting her Cows fix on numerous occasions!

Alexander Keith's!

Another night at Durty Nelly's


Harbour Hopper tour of land and sea


The waterfront....from the water!


Visiting the Citadel atop the hill

Old Town Clock to keep the soldiers punctual!

Touring the historic fort



Stirring bagpipes atop the fortress walls

Barracks


Bearly's House of Blues

Old Burying Ground cemetery 




Halifax by Night - City Hall


East Coast 2026 - Peggy's Cove

Departing Lunenburg, we headed further east for Halifax but followed the shore to enjoy the next town up the road, the beautiful Mahone Bay. It was early in the morning so the sleepy town was just waking, but one could see spending a vacation or a retirement there as well.

We then opted for the very worthwhile detour to visit Peggy's Cove. Beyond the iconic lighthouse set atop epic slabs of granite, the village itself is also very beautiful and offers several galleries, gift shops and restaurants.

The sombre skies and stiff winds made for the perfect visit, as breakers crashed heavily along the rocks down below. Unlike previous visits, besides the signs warning people to stay off the black rocks, they had actually posted a security guard out there now too.

We enjoyed the sweeping vistas and crashing waves for a while, then ventured inland to explore the shops and take photos of the serene harbour, a stark contrast to the raging seas beyond.

We also arrived early enough in the season and the day, that it wasn't as busy as we had expected - though it was starting to pick up as we were leaving. Taking the back way to Halifax, we also stopped for lunch in West Dover and I enjoyed a great lobster roll overlooking the water at Shaw's Landing while Jane devoured some fish cakes. 

Onward to Halifax!


The Bronco lands at Peggy's Cove

Danger Danger!

Iconic Canadian landscape under brooding skies





We were perfectly safe - much further back than the perspective would suggest!



Peggy's Cove village



Lobster roll at Shaw's Landing

Fish cakes and fries

Scenic West Dover and her fishing fleet