The Beatings Will Continue Until Morale Improves...: September 2016

Grand Manan Island

We saved the best of the road trip for last - nearly a week of cliff camping on Grand Manan Island in the Bay of Fundy. Given cooperative weather, it's about as close to perfection as we have found in our varied travels.

After a pleasant drive from PEI to Blacks Harbour, on the southwestern coast of New Brunswick, we caught the ferry to Grand Manan. We made straight for Hole in the Wall campground, disappointed to find that our favourite cliff site was currently occupied....but of course, it was Saturday.

We selected another site on the cliff for one night, knowing we could move the next day to Cliff 17. To be fair, they're all pretty awesome.....we're just picky at this point in our fourth visit to the place!

The weather did cooperate, and we spent the next six days and nights perched atop a cliff, reading books (and some work stuff); watching seals, whales and the ferry go by; enjoying bonfires, and generally marvelling at regular intervals over the unparalleled view.

We did squeeze in a few hikes, some tours around the island, and the wind died down enough that we even worked in some sea kayaking on our last night, ironically paddling from North Head harbour out and around the lighthouse to underneath our cliff site and back. Unlike whale tours and other motorized ventures, it's incredible how close a dozen curious grey and harbour seals will come to check out your kayak! Sadly we left the cameras on dry land for fear of the obvious.

We took the early boat to the mainland on Friday morning, thankfully gaining an hour at the Maine border as we took a beautiful short cut to southeastern Quebec, before hammering westward to the south of Montreal and on into Ontario. A fifteen hour day saw us stop for the night in Trenton, followed by a short run home the next morning to the awaiting feline chaos.

The Grand Manan Adventure arriving in Blacks Harbour

The Bay of Fundy awaits.....

......as we leave the mainland behind

The life preserver says it all!

Rounding Swallowtail Light at North Head

A pretty decent temporary view

The ferry heads back for the mainland

Cliff 17....let the pictures do the talking!

Our tent hunkered behind scant cover

Book, Beer, Fire, View....check!

Three Cole Men

Dinner over the open fire - stewing beef and veggies with garlic!

Historic herring smokehouses at Seal Cove

Grand Harbour at low tide

One of several local fishing fleets

A darkened cliff

Full moon over boats, bonfires and Swallowtail Light

Northwestern Maine near the Quebec border

Prince Edward Island

Once off the ferry, a high-speed run under sunny skies across northern Quebec and through New Brunswick saw us safely to Moncton in time for dinner. We met Roxxi and dined at the Tide and Boar Gastropub downtown, before returning to Roxxi's place for the night. It's nice to have friends in far places.....though sadly Nathan and The Motorleague were on tour in Ontario at the same time we were visiting the Maritimes!

The next morning we set off for Prince Edward Island, crossing the nearly 13 kilometer long Confederation Bridge over the Northumberland Strait. Making a bee-line for the north shore of the island, we opted for Cabot Beach Provincial Park this time rather than the usual PEI National Park. We were not disappointed.

We spent two nights on these tranquil shores, enjoying warm days of touring red beaches and friendly towns, and evening bonfires under open skies, lulled to sleep by the soothing waves. As always, we timed the trip to avoid the summer crowds. What PEI lacks in rugged appeal, it makes up for in quaint charm and peaceful pace. We hadn't been here in nearly a decade, and fell in love with Anne's Island all over again.

Confederation Bridge from the PEI side

Welcome!

Setting up camp at Cabot Beach

Unmistakable shoreline

R&R on the shores of PEI

Boardwalk to the Beach

One of many small fishing villages

Swimming Rock outside Stanley Bridge

North Shore paradise on a perfect day

Wash your cares away

Malpeque Harbour

Sunset over Cabot Beach

Saguenay Fjord

From Quebec City, we took a quiet and scenic route north through Jacques Cartier National Park, even as heavy traffic funneled into the city for the first day of school. After a quick grocery stop in the town of Saguenay, we followed the Saguenay River eastward to Riviere-Eternite and Saguenay Fjord National Park.

Once we set up camp, we opted for a hike up the mountain for a view of the fjord. Sure, it was only 1.6 kilometers......but it was pretty much straight UP, complete with switchbacks which made the distance longer. Some huffing, puffing and a few water breaks later, we reached the scenic overlook for a few minutes of well-earned panorama.....before heading back down.

After a lovely night under starry skies, we continued east to catch the boat at Saint-Simeon, which would ferry us across the St. Lawrence to Riviere-du-Loup, saving a four-hour drive back down to Quebec City to the last bridge across the river. A playful pod of Beluga whales escorted us to the east bank, and on our way to New Brunswick.