Saturday, May 31, 2025

Wales - Holyhead (and Dublin and Home)

The train ride from Conwy to Holyhead was scenic, as we continued to follow the Welsh coast westward. With the water to our right, the hills to our left, and the train tunnels, the roughly one-hour rail ride did not disappoint. We arrived in Holyhead and left the station with luggage in tow, heading across the Celtic Gateway Bridge and into the town.

We had secured a night at the Hut Seafront Inn - nothing fancy, but certainly in a good location very near to the Stena ferry for tomorrow's crossing to Dublin. Holyhead was rather more "industrial" than Conwy, and had the run-down feel of a port town. Once we dropped our luggage, we wandered the downtown to witness the many closed or vacant shops, while stopping for a pint at the very authentic George Hotel.

Returning to our room, we opted for pizza and several beers for dinner downstairs at The Old Shipping Office pub, where we were pretty much their only customers. Once again, the common refrain from many bartenders on the trip was "Are you OK?", meaning "do you need anything?". After a pleasant stay, we turned in early without unpacking anything, in preparation for the morning's ferry crossing.

We left early the next morning to walk to the nearby ferry, only to discover that you can't actually walk to the boat due to port security, but rather have to walk all the way back to the train station to catch a shuttle bus back past the Hut Seafront Inn to the boat. Luckily we left ourselves extra time, as in the end we needed it. We grabbed our first coffee at the train station and Jane regaled the staff with details of her knee replacements as we passed through the security checkpoint - given that we were transiting from post-Brexit UK back to the EU.

Once on board the ferry Stena Adventurer, we found the cafeteria and shared a nice breakfast as the vessel glided away from Wales. We moved to the forward lounge to enjoy the sunny crossing as we traversed the becalmed Irish Sea. I even had a Guinness to celebrate our triumphant return to the Emerald Isle.

We passed through a long breakwall that corralled us into the River Liffey, and the very busy port of Dublin. Disembarking the ship, we quickly found a taxi and were whisked by a very friendly driver (distant cousin to Mark Carney no less) to the Metro Hotel Dublin Airport in Ballymun, our last stop of the trip.

We checked in and unpacked EVERYTHING, to re-jig, organize and repack one last time for the flight home. Jane used the vacuum bags to minimize as much bulk as possible. We also crossed the street to grab a few travel snacks at a convenience store/pharmacy (Dealz), including stumbling across Walnut Whips for our cat-care lady! With the bags sorted, we went downstairs and had a nice dinner at the hotel restaurant....and returned later in the evening for chicken wings and one last Guinness in Ireland.

The next morning saw light drizzle, literally the first real rain of the entire trip. The free airport shuttle hit a mechanical snag, but the hotel called us a taxi at their expense, and we shared a nice ride with a Galway girl and a German tourist who occasionally pet-sits on Vancouver Island. Arriving at Terminal 1, it was "suggested" that we check at least one of our carry-on bags, given that the flight was full. 

Airport security was very hectic, with little room to collect oneself afterwards with no belt and no shoes. Both of our personal items (very small backpacks) triggered a closer inspection - Jane's because she forgot she had a bottle of pop in hers, mine because in th words of the older Supervisor, the young staff working the screening machine did not recognize two odd devices - my point and shoot digital cameras.

Once through security , Jane hit Duty Free for some souvenir Irish liqueurs for John (Coole Swan and Five Farms) and an Irish whisky sampler plus the obligatory Fruit & Nut bars for Heather. We ended up checking our other carry-on at the gate, since we already had to collect a checked bag.

We loaded from the tarmac into the rear of the Westjet plane (seats 29 A,B) for a pleasant 7-hour flight home, landing in Toronto in early afternoon local time. Once on the ground, roughly half the plane unloaded before someone apparently fell in the gangway, causing a 75-minute delay for a medical emergency. Customs was smooth thanks to the ArriveCan app. Due to the delay, our bags were waiting for us and we quickly boarded the airport tram back to Bucky Dent waiting in the Viscount lot. 

Other than a bit of traffic in the GTA, the drive home was uneventful and after a quick dinner stop at Mary Brown's in Woodstock, we arrived home around 7pm (midnight for us!). The cats were happy and the lawn was out of control, as the guy we had hired to cut the grass in our absence clearly had NOT. 

On the whole, what a truly memorable experience to celebrate our 25th Anniversary!!!  :)

Catching the afternoon train from Conwy to Holyhead

Holyhead train station

Celtic Gateway Bridge to Holyhead

Hut Seafront Inn


Downtown Holyhead


Holyhead War Memorial

Good place for a pint!

Shuttle bus from the train station to the Stena ferry 

Leaving Holyhead behind

Breakfast on Board!


Entering the River Liffey

Arriving back in Dublin!

Final repack for the flight home

Last Supper at Metro Hotel Dublin Airport

Westjet Dublin to Toronto


Home to out of control lawn


Just missing the Guinness!


Wales - Conwy

We were up at 4am and walked our friends over to Waverley Bridge to make sure they caught their express bus to the airport. Heading back to the apartment on Niddry, we napped a little more before gathering our own gear and heading out again, this time for the train station. We grabbed coffees and awaited the first of three trains we would be taking today en route to Wales.

We caught the 852am Avanti West Coast train bound for London, but our stop was Crewe in northern England. We enjoyed the lush and rolling countryside of southern Scotland and into England and through the Lake District, filled with sheep, cows and stone fences.

At Crewe, we transferred to a dedicated train that makes the 20 minute run between Crewe and Chester (Caer in Welsh). During the short layover, we couldn't help but notice two distinct crowds populating the platform - people in extremely fine dress, and a drunken frat pack openly drinking beer. We assumed wedding, but eventually learned that it was a big day of  horse races at Chester Races. We also had a last-minute platform change that made things interesting for us as we scrambled to the new location with all our luggage, but even moreso for those in high heels and tight dresses!

We had a longer layover at Chester (40 minutes), and grabbed some sandwiches at the train station before catching our final train from there to Holyhead, and our stop about an hour before that at the walled medieval town of Conwy. Our friends were also sending pictures of their last Guinness at the Dublin airport (having flown in from Edinburgh to connect to Toronto) and their upgraded seats for the long leg of their flight. The journey from Caer to Conwy was pleasant, as it followed the coast while we chatted with a nice local who had lived in Vancouver.

Arriving in Conwy, we walked the short distance into the town and inquired about our accommodations at Y Capel, an old church converted into a guesthouse. We were too early, but the same owners ran the awesome pub across the street (Erskine Arms) where you checked in, so we washed down our long travel day with some pints of local ale and cider (flat strawberry!) and some food. Once checked in, our room was beautiful (nicest room of the whole trip, alas but for one night) with a small terrace out back overlooking the church, medieval walls and castle.

For the rest of the day, we explored the old town, the waterfront quay and the city walls, with stops for shopping and ice cream. We had dinner at the Blue Bell pub, followed by drinks back at the Erskine. Unbeknownst to us, it was Pirate Festival weekend in Conwy, and we began to see more and more costumed characters out and about. We even spotted Rick Steves' bus parked outside the Castle Hotel.

The next morning, we were back at the Erskine for our Full Welsh breakfast that was included with the room. Fully sated, we left our bags at the pub (with permission) and set off to explore the ruins of Conwy Castle, and then wandered to the waterfront to experience the full madness of the Pirate Festival, complete with a cannon battle between a pirate ship and a shore battery. We retreated back uptown for fish and chips at The Archway, followed by a pint at The Albion across the street.

Pirate Festival notwithstanding (it got VERY busy in a relatively small town), we would highly recommend checking out Conwy. Having explored as much as we could in a short span of time, we gathered our bags (and a few more pints) before making our way down to the platform by mid-afternoon to catch the westbound Transport for Wales train to Holyhead.

Catching our train to Wales at Waverley Station

Rolling countryside in southern Scotland and northern England

Catching our third train in Chester, England (aka Caer)

Welcome to Welsh!

Alighting the train in Conwy, Wales

Quenching a powerful thirst at the Erskine Arms!


Our lodgings at Y Capel - aka The Chapel!


View from our terrace at Y Capel

St. Mary's & All Saints Cemetery - with our terrace in the background!

Aberconwy House

Conwy Quay and harbour

The Smallest House in Great Britain

Heading back up High Street from the harbour
Wales has one of the coolest flags!

Conwy town walls

Walking the town walls in early evening


Conwy Castle and River Conwy from atop the walls

Breakfast at the Erskine Arms

The Full Welsh!

Mill Gate

Conwy Castle


Courtyard

Exploring the Castle Ruins






Stunning ruins!


Annual Pirate Festival!

A pint at the The Albion...


...and another few at the Erskine Arms!