BEST of ITALY 2009 - Florence

Friday, October 30, 2009

We departed from our hotel in Signa early in the morning, and took the Cosmos bus into Florence, or Firenze as the Italians call the city. Crossing the River Arno on foot, we met up with our local guide for a walking tour of this beautiful medieval city, cradle of the Renaissance.

The tour began in Piazza Santa Croce, site of another large church, and a demonstration at the nearby Peruzzi leather factory. From there our very animated and knowledgeable guide led us to the Piazza del Duomo, where we found the massive Santa Maria del Fiore Duomo, basilica and bell tower, with its very large and characteristic domed roof. Across from the front of the Duomo sat an old Roman baptistry with huge bronze doors known as the Gates of Paradise, with ten panels depicting scenes from the bible in raised bronze.

We toured inside the grandiose basilica and marvelled at its painted ceilings, arches and domes, before continuing our walk to the Piazza della Signoria, site of the ancient fortress of the powerful Medici family. This square was also lined with various large statues, including a copy of Michelangelo's famous "David".

The tour ended and we were set free to wander on our own. Some of the group opted to tour the acclaimed museums Accademia, and the Uffizi Gallery. We headed back to the Arno and walked the Ponte Vecchio, the old bridge lined with merchants. Enjoying a dining experience in a tiny eatery with all locals (Buffet Freddo), Mike's basic Italian was sorely tested, but we managed to secure Jane a pizza without anything that might kill her.

Our stomachs full, we returned to the Duomo square and hiked up the 414 steps of the bell tower, adjacent to the cathedral, for a commanding view of Florence and the nearby Tuscan hills. the sweeping panoramas were well worth the sore legs and the many tight squeezes passing others on their way down the old and narrow stone staircases.

We finished the day in Florence with some shopping at an outdoor market, before heading back to meet up with the group to return to the bus. Following a short ride back to Hotel Europa in Signa and some down time for laundry and recharging batteries both human and electronic, we met up with our travelling companions for a group dinner in the hotel restaurant. A visit to a nearby gelateria provided the perfect finish to the night, for some pure chocolate gelato.

Ponte Vecchio lined with merchant shops

A copy of Michelangelo's "David" at Piazza della Signoria

Duomo and Bell Tower

The Dome and Florence from atop the Bell Tower

BEST of ITALY 2009 - Pisa

Thursday, October 29, 2009

After our long day in Rome, the next day was largely a travel day, as we journeyed north along state roads and the toll autostrade and into the Tuscany region. The undulating hills and rounded peaks of the Apuan Alps remained our constant companion. Our first highway rest stop along the way, to ease our aching bladders and also meet strict driver log requirements, offered us our first glimpse of the ubiqitous Autogrill.

These roadside facilities offer fuel, washrooms, snacks, and even hot food and drink if you are willing to engage the other travellers in a random fight for service at the counter. Everybody lines up to pay for their food....but then once they have their food ticket, one must proceed to the bar and in the words of Sabina, "fight for their rights as the Italians do". Essentially, whomever gets noticed gets served next. No line.

In the early afternoon, we arrived at Pisa, formerly on the coast but now 10km inland. A smaller local bus took us from a parking area to the medieval walled section of the old town, where we visited the famous Leaning Tower as well as the much less known Duomo (cathedral) and outbuildings. The afternoon included a casual stroll of the quaint old town, and lunch at a sidewalk bistro (Trattoria La Buca), complete with the Tower leaning ominously in the background.

John and Julie even opted to climb the 200+ steps up the Tower for the best view, despite being pressed for time to meet our bus. Only 30 people are allowed in the Tower at a time, and nobody else can go up until people come down.

Back on the bus, we headed straight east and inland, towards Florence. Our stop for the evening was Hotel Europa in the suburb of Signa, for decent accomodation nested in an urban square beside the train station. Wandering the streets, John found free internet on his I-Touch in front of a closed wireless provider shop, and sent some quick emails.

A quick trip to the local supermarket netted us some provisions, joined by some of the Australians from the bus, as we stocked up on water, snacks, and Mike discovered the wonder of the 1L box of cooking wine for 0.70 euros. After dumping our goods at the hotel, we enjoyed an authentic Italian four-course dinner at Pizzeria Da Foffo, one of the best meals of the whole trip.

The Apennines from the bus window

Pisa Duomo, Basilica and Leaning Tower

Doing my part to preserve heritage

A fine glass of local red Toscana under the Tower!

BEST of ITALY 2009 - Rome

Wednesday, October 28, 2009

The tour began in earnest on Wednesday. After a decent continental breakfast, a group of 39 intrepid travellers boarded the bus, led by Sabina and driver Angelo. A relatively short jaunt later, we disembarked in downtown Rome andmet our local guide, Cinzia (Cynthia). She led us across the border and into the world's smallest country, the Vatican City. We started at the Vatican Museum, where many wonders and treasures lay, ending at the Sistine Chapel with its magnificent frescoes including Michaelangelo's Final Judgement.

After the museum, Cinzia led us quickly outside, for Wednesday mornings in the Vatican City include a papal mass - yes, along with a throng of thousands, the four of us were also blessed by Pope Benedict in St. Peter's Square as he conducted mass in front of the St. Peter's Basilica, the largest church in the world.

We departed the Vatican City and boarded the bus "back" to Italy and across the Tiber River for the short journey to the Colisseum and Roman Forum. Cinzia again led us, through the mighty 2000-year old Colisseum and then the ruins of the Roman Forum, regaling us with many tales and facts over our whisper headsets as we walked.

Some of the group headed back to the hotel after the tour, but the four of us acquired a map of the city and hopped on the crowded Metro (subway), navigating our way northward to the closest stop to the Spanish Steps, a well-known public gathering place in Rome. From there, we wandered westward to the Trevi Fountain, where we stopped for pizza and beer at a cobblestone sidewalk eatery.

Our passeggiata (evening stroll) continued through streets, alleys and squares to the looming Pantheon, and then Piazza Navona, a square lined with cafes and filled with artisans. Rounding out the evening with some house wine at Miscellanea, beside the Pantheon, we arranged a taxi back to the hotel and enjoyed a late dinner (as is the Italian custom) at the same restaurant as the night before.

Pope Benedict blesses the audience

St. Peter's Square and Basilica

Roman Forum Ruins

The Colisseum

Spanish Steps

Trevi Fountain

Pantheon - Home of the Gods

Piazza Navona

BEST of ITALY 2009 - Arrival

Tuesday, October 27, 2009

After catching an 8.5-hour flight from Toronto on Monday afternoon, and losing six hours to time zone gods, we touched down safely at Leonardo da Vinci airport in Rome at dawn on Tuesday morning. The four of us - John, Julie, Jane and I - had set off on a two-week Italian adventure, a guided bus tour with Cosmos.

After arranging a taxi with some rudimentary Italian, we were soon off into Roman rush-hour traffic for our first glimpse of both Italy and vehicular chaos. Once in our rooms at Hotel Pineta Palace, on the northwest outskirts of the city, we enjoyed a fairly low-key afternoon to steel ourselves for the impending frenzy.

Forcing ourselves to stay awake, we took a stroll around the dense suburban jungle surrounding the hotel to walk off the jet-lag, and attended an orientation session with our tour group and tour director, Sabina. At her recommendation, we sampled local fare at a nearby restaurant, our first culinary experience of the trip. The pasta, pizza, and birra alla spina (beer on tap) did not disappoint.

Finally, after some 36 hours without sleep, we turned in for the night.......

Passports and Euros at the Ready

The Cosmos tour bus outside Pineta Palace

Corner suite at Pineta Palace

The view from our balcony

Cleveland Rocks!!!

Blackmore's Night does not come to North America to play very often, sticking mostly to castles and cathedrals of medieval Europe, so when we saw the opportunity to catch them live we jumped on it. Cleveland happened to be the closest venue, a solid four hour jaunt around Lake Erie even though really just diagonally across from our place!

We figured we might as well make a day of it, so we headed out early and made the trek. We eschewed the speedy interstate and opted instead for scenic road along Lake Erie, once clear of Detroit and Toledo. The rain let up just before we got to Cleveland, allowing us to spend a few hours walking the surprisingly nice architecture and feel of the downtown core. Cleveland sits right on the opposite shores of Lake Erie, a little chilly on a sombre October day, but nothing a few good Great Lakes Dopplebocks can't fix.

The BMN show was incredible, two solid hours of Ritchie and Candace and their merry band of minstrels in an intimate venue. Sadly no pics of the show itself, but truly memorable all the same. Made the drive home afterwards, late and long but crossed the border with no wait or difficulty.....walked in the door just after 3am...

Blackmore's Night at the House of Blues

Cleveland architecture

...and from a distance....

Central monument and The Tower in the background

Zippity Do Dah!

I recently experienced a neat tree-top adventure walk, involving zip-lines and various unstable platforms strung high up in the trees using wires. The zipping was nice a break from all the other wacky balancing acts, including a huge final zip down to the clubhouse for a nice cold beer in the parking lot.

In the end it was a heck of a workout, and we only did the Medium level of difficulty. All in all a memorable experience....and everything is actually much higher up than the photographs make it look!

Clipped on for safety...

Yes, that is my arse over my tea-kettle....and the next thing I did was let go!

The Skateboard of Doom!

Come with me, to the Renaissance Faire...

Labour Day weekend called for something memorable, so off we went on Sunday to visit the Renaissance Faire in Holly, Michigan. Rather than the usual frantic and stressful Ambassador Bridge crossing at Windsor, we opted for the much slower-paced small car ferry across the river at Sombra, about halfway up to Sarnia. A little out of the way, but much less hassle than negotiating Detroit and the I-75 construction detours.

Waiting at Sombra for the ferry to return from Marine City, MI

Hurry now, we're almost there....fa la la la la la, la la, la LA!

A Day at the Faire

Ye Olde Village

The Great Manolete and his "Pyro Gyro Show"

A long but truly memorable day of shows, sights, sounds and tastes, highlighted by The Wench Show and the Manolete's Pyro Gyro Show, not to mention the cool wooden mugs we brought back. We capped the day off with a great dinner on a riverside patio in Marine City, just before crossing back into Canada on the ferry.