Saturday, September 30, 2023

Scandinavia - Day 20

We left Hotel Bethel around 730am and began the short walk to the Metro station in Kongens Nytorv, which thankfully we had scouted the night before. Copenhagen's Metro has 4 different lines and they all happen to converge at Kongens Nytorv.....meaning it's a lot easier if you know WHICH Metro entrance to take around the square. It's like a small city down there, with shops, escalators, elevators, and a lot going on.....and a lot of extra walking if you take the wrong entrance.

We took the right elevator down to M2 and grabbed tickets from the machine.....in about 90 seconds, as the next train arrived. While it was unfortunately very crowded and we had to stand with all our luggage, we were in the very front car and had a picture window view of the subway line ahead and even points where tracks diverge in different directions.

In just over ten minutes, we arrived at Terminal 3, and made the short trek over to Terminal 2, where we found coffee and croissants at a 7-11. We were fairly early, so had to wait to find out where our check-in was......then wait again to find out where our gate was....and then they changed it on us last minute. Luckily it wasn't too far. They never weighed our bags, which was good - overall we knew we were under the limit, but might have had to do some re-arranging on a per bag basis.

To our surprise, at security they even let us keep the two jars of Norwegian honey we bought from a roadside stand north of Kongsberg. It was at various times a liquid and a solid, so we knew it was a gamble, as it well exceeded 100ml.

In the interim, we checked out the Duty Free (again unsuccessfully) and had a quick and expensive lunch and beer at another Gasoline Grill location in the terminal.  

The flight to Iceland left a bit late after the gate change, and was only 3.5 hours, but ended in a rather rocky landing amid heavy rain and extremely strong winds. As we attempted to touch down, the wings twice did a rather disconcerting waggle....and Jane almost broke my hand. The plane was literally rocking as we sat still on the runway.

Once on the ground, we also realized that we would be shunted to a "remote" gate, meaning that a series of buses would be picking us up in the wind and rain to ferry us to the terminal....annoying AND time consuming.

We hurried through passport control on the way to our departure gate - what had been a 1.25 hour layover became a direct dash to our next boarding gate, without even time for a washroom stop. Thankfully, once on the plane we both had time to visit the loo before departure.

The flight to Hamilton was nearly 6 hours into a headwind, with some nice views of Greenland, Labrador, and even Barrie and Lake Simcoe. This landing was smooth in perfect weather, and Customs was mercifully swift. Our clever plan had also worked - the best way to avoid having your car stolen at Hamilton airport, is to leave your dented and damaged car beside a much nicer one!

We hopped in the car just after 6pm and started the 2.5 hour drive home, with our internal clocks thinking it was midnight. A quick coffee and food stop in Woodstock saw us the rest of the way.

On the drive, it occurred to me that I had actually logged more miles in Winston (2997 km) than I had driven in our new used Bronco Sport....and at this point in the trip, Bucky definitely felt more foreign! 

We had one last scare as the headlights illuminated five deer standing at the side of the 401 near Ridgetown, providing a shot of adrenaline with which caffeine cannot compete. We arrived home just before 9pm (but 3am to us) to very long grass, happy cats and full litter boxes.....and even managed to stay up for a bit! Epic Trip, Part Deux....in the books!

Heading home from Copenhagen

With a sketchy stop in Keflavik....

....where they are starting to get to know us pretty well!

Norwegian Kroner

Danish Kroner

Bucky Dent(ed) waiting patiently in B5

Home to long grass and cuddly cats!

Thursday, September 28, 2023

Scandinavia - Day 19

After a good sleep, we were up early and grabbed coffee with a croissant and a Danish (ahem) before it got busy at the on-board cafe. We watched from an open air deck as we neared the city, and could see the Oresund Bridge/Tunnel, a bunch of windmills, and steady aircraft coming and going.

We sailed into Copenhagen by 10am, and observed in awe from the top deck as the Captain literally backed the ferry into the dock through a fairly narrow opening. From there, disembarkation was fairly smooth, other than a bit of a wait for an elevator.

We had decided to walk the half hour or so from the pier to our hotel, no great distance to be sure, but now laden with all of our luggage in a very cobblestoned city unfriendly to rolling suitcases....it took us awhile. Luckily the weather was nice, sunny and a tad on the warm side.

Our meanderings included exploring the Kastellet fortress, still technically a military base - Frederik's Kirke, a Lutheran Cathedral - and the iconic Little Mermaid along the harbour wall. Jane even found some vegan ice cream she could have, while I enjoyed a Carlsberg in the street. Imagine.

We dropped our luggage at Hotel Bethel on Nyhavn - our room wasn't ready but they had a storage area - and ventured back out to wander the city unencumbered. We were very excited to have a hotel right on the trendy canal, in the heart of all the hubbub.

We crossed the canal at found a great lunch spot at one of the many tented patios (Nyhavn 37) that lined the north side. Jane went with the standard fish and chips, while I chose the lunch menu of three different Smorrebrod, along with some drinks to quench our thirsts after the long walk. 

Checking in, we made the somewhat odd trek to our room - from reception, to an elevator, down a floor, through a courtyard, up a floor in a different (and funky) elevator....to Room 137. By now, we were also able to check in for tomorrow's flight, now that we had wifi again. The hotel also had a well stocked little cooler at reception with beer and other cold beverages.

Wandering the city again, we strolled up to Kongens Nytorv, scouted the Metro for tomorrow's getaway, and wandered the length of the Stroget pedestrian and shopping strip. On our way back, we grabbed a hot dog and sausage at a street vendor, and enjoyed some Nyhavn nightlife as the sun set on a truly memorable vacation. 

After a final re-pack of the luggage and a re-distribution for weight purposes, we ventured back out to another patio on Nyhavn to split a burger and fries, listen to canal-side buskers, and have one last drink to soak in the atmosphere in this magical place.

Nearing Copenhagen on a glorious morning


He backed it in to let all the vehicles off - nice job!

War Memorial near Kastellet fortress

Kastellet


The Little Mermaid

Frederik's Kirke

The view from inside - including the 12 Apostles on the domed ceiling


Our hotel at 22 Nyhavn

Welcome....to Room 137!


Statue of Christian X on Bredgade and Saint Ann's Square (Sankt Annae Plads)

Local water taxi making a stop

The King's New Square (Kongens Nytorv) near the hotel

Kongens Nytorv - and our Metro entrance for tomorrow morning!

Strolling the Stroget



Beautiful architecture

I had the Smorrebrod Lunch Plate on the left!

Smorrebrod: Roast Beef - Egg and Shrimps - Pickles and Plaice

Lunch is served......with a killer view!


Nyhavn gold!


Nyhavn by Night


Wednesday, September 27, 2023

Scandinavia - Day 18

We awoke early to a beautiful sunrise over our last day in Norway. Putting Winston back together, we got our luggage all laid out and headed for Sandefjord. After a short trek to the E18, we made one last Circle K stop for our 11th free coffee and some cinnamon raisin buns.

With time to spare, we opted for a quiet route free of tolls and traffic, and snuck in the back door to Sandefjord, until the last few busy blocks before the train station. Lenka and Vlado were able to meet us earlier than planned, giving us a chance to catch the earlier hourly train to Oslo. After regaling them with a few tales of our travels, we said farewell to Winston, some 2997 km and many MANY fond memories later.

I bought tickets from a machine on the platform, and we caught the crowded 947am train, which clearly could have used more than five cars. We were seated apart, but at least we both had seats. When the conductor came to Jane and asked for her ticket, she pointed to me a few seats away and said "my husband has my ticket". As he turned to me, I replied to the conductor, "I've never seen her before". Luckily, he was a ginger and had a good sense of humour. The woman seated beside me couldn't stop laughing.

The train got so busy at subsequent stops that it was standing room only and very crowded at that, with people barely able to get on. Then came the mass exodus at Oslo Central Station, where most of the train emptied out. Once we made our way up from the tracks and out the front doors, we wandered the downtown and began to look for something to eat.

We found a great restaurant a few blocks away, Engebret Cafe - also billed as the oldest restaurant in the city (1857). It was actually so nice that we were hesitant to enter, given our suitcases, backpacks and generally disheveled appearance....but they were very kind and just said "travellers are still travellers".

We were seated in a very fancy dining room (for us, anyway), with dark wood and old art. We both ordered a form of smorrebrod (open-faced sandwich on rye bread), with Jane ordering reindeer with lingonberry, while I opted for pork chop and onions. 

Sated, we walked down to the waterfront, and inspected the King's fortress followed by a Jewish memorial just outside the walls. Following the road, we wrapped around the harbour and found the DFDS ferry terminal and boarded our ship, which would take us overnight from Oslo to Copenhagen. 

While the staterooms were not yet ready, we found a quiet spot for a coffee, then explored the ship a little. Later, once we had dropped our bags in the room, we wandered up to the open decks to witness our departure....completely with oddly triumphant marching music played over the loudspeaker as the Crown Seaways pulled away from the dock.

We spent the next several hours wandering the ship as we made our way slowly out the long expanse of Oslofjord and looking for open water on the way to Denmark. The crossing is about 19 hours in total, but you are required to book a cabin as part of booking passage. We also had to remember that we were now on a Danish ship and paying in Danish Crowns ($0.20 CDN), rather than Norwegian Crowns ($0.12 CDN).....making those expensive beers just a little bit even more expensive!

We had a nice dinner at Little Italy, shopped unsuccessfully at the duty free shop, and enjoyed some drinks at Sky Bar on the open aft deck as Norway melted gently away behind us.

Sunrise over Winston

Returning the van in one piece!

Catching the train in Sandefjord

Arriving in downtown Oslo


Oslo Sentralstasjon

Engebret Cafe in Oslo


Smorrebrod!





King's fortress 

Jewish Memorial

Our overnight ferry waiting in Oslo harbour

Oslo Opera House

Farewell to Oslo.....and Norway!

Some drinks with a view at the Sky Bar on Deck 9


Ferries everywhere!

Olive gnocchi

Spaghetti Bolognese

Meandering our way out the Oslofjord

Open water in the Skagerrak

Stateroom 6519 - our room for the night!