We left Reykjahlid early and left the Ring Road to circle around the shoreline of Lake Myvatn instead. Along the way, we stopped along the eastern shore to explore the rock formations at Dimmuborgir, where legend has it the Yule Lads live!
In Icelandic folklore, there are 13 mischievous or monstrous characters that appear one each day, starting 13 days before Christmas, to steal from people and harass them. There is even a giant Yule cat, that apparently eats children that did not receive any new clothes for Christmas!
We also hiked UP the side of the steep Hverfjall crater nearby, to view the interior and also enjoy a commanding view over Lake Myvatn.....all before we had coffee!
Once around the lake, we regained the Ring Road and stopped a little to the west to check out the Godafoss, the Waterfall of the Gods. We also checked out the gift shop for some coffee and souvenirs.
Jane took over driving for the first time in the trip, and practised a bit in the ample parking lot....before promptly stalling the van at the one lane bridge leaving the Godafoss. Hers was not a gearshift problem, but apparently the diesel van needs a little more gas on a slight hill than our Juke does!
She recovered quickly (after a few honks) and drove west and eventually through the 7 km long Vadlaheidargong toll tunnel though the mountains, where you pay by app or website within three hours of passing through. She pulled over after the tunnel, atop a steep incline down into Akureyri, the only other city in Iceland besides Reykjavik.
I resumed driving as we descended into the city, grabbing some lunch at the N1 (hot dogs of course) across the causeway. We also stopped to stock up on groceries at a Bonus (aka Icelandic No Frills), and Jane fulfilled her desire to get reusable Bonus bags (with giant piggy bank logo) as a souvenir.
Once through the city and a few more roundabouts, Jane took over driving again so I could enjoy the stunning scenery west of Akureyri. After a quick lunch stop for ham on fresh baguette at a picnic area, we continued west as far as Saeberg, where we camped for the night on the shores of Hrutafjordur.
The campsite had a geothermal pool which we took advantage of while things were quiet, before making some dinner (penne in cheap and deliciously zingy Dolmio bolognese sauce) in the common kitchen shelter. As the campsite filled up, the pool became a bit of a party with the younger crowd.
Later, when someone came around to collect camping fees (very common in Iceland, just set up and eventually someone will show up), we were also able to finagle doing some laundry at the affiliated hostel next door, and spent the night running between the van and the laundry room to check on things.
Unfortunately, the laundry room was also the garbage and recycling room, which was still full from a busy summer season....but beggars can't be choosers, and we just appreciated the free opportunity!
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