Saturday, September 17, 2022

Iceland Day 14 - Travel Home

Jane completed our final packup in the hotel room, and in addition to all of our stuff, she was able to fit 8 local beer cans and bottles into our very limited space. I'm still not sure how she pulled that off!?!?

After a relaxing morning in the room, we set out for a 20 minute walk to the BSI bus terminal, where we would catch the Flybus shuttle to Keflavik airport. Little did we know that we would spend the next 45 minutes listening to a right wing diatribe from a U.S. couple and woman in front of us, about all the troubles in the world being the fault of Biden and Antifa and vaccines and the left in general.

We arrived at Keflavik airport very early, some five hours before our flight, so we grabbed a coffee and found a quiet area until we could proceed through security....which was going smoothly until they thought that our lava salt was a prohibited liquid that we should have disposed of before screening!

Once on the other side, we had some lunch and a beer, did some final shopping (souvenirs and two books - one on Icelandic Sagas, and the other a Nobel-Prize winning piece of Icelandic fiction), and my keen eyes even spotted Nicolaj Coster-Waldau (aka Ser Jaime Lannister from Game of Thrones) in the Departures area - he's Danish, so was likely connecting to nearby Copenhagen. We left him alone but did get a photo from afar.

Our mistake was heading to the departure gates early - normally that gets you away from the crowd to a quieter place. At Keflavik, that gets you from a nice large open space with food, washrooms and ample seating, to a very narrow area with no services and no space. In fairness, they are working feverishly to expand the airport, likely to catch up with the rampant demand for Icelandic tourism. 

At any rate, we ended up in a small area with four planes all leaving within minutes of each other, and four snaking lines that coalesced into one big mess - you couldn't even tell which line was for your plane! Buses arrived constantly to transport us to the tarmac, to walk up onto our plane - we were near the back in row 37 of a very full 42 row plane, and ended up taking off late, likely due to so many planes being scheduled to take off at roughly the same time. 

The flight itself was pretty good, including views of southern Greenland and then the Labrador coast, though we did hit some nasty turbulence over Quebec and eastern Ontario. We were roughly 6 hours flying to Toronto going against the wind, and I managed to watch all of Fellowship of the Ring and most the The Two Towers before we descended into Pearson.

The landing was good.....but then we sat on the tarmac FOREVER. Once off the the plane, Customs was mercifully quick (though a very long walk), hopefully owing to our work the day before to satisfy the ArriveCan app and the CBSA pre-declaration. With no checked bags, we walked out of Terminal 3 and found the Juke in Daily Park, and soon were on our way down the 401 West.

The drive home was cool and smooth - traffic was light, the roads were clear, and our only stop was a quick break in Woodstock for food. We arrived home just before midnight, surprised to be as awake as I was, as my internal clock still thought it was 4am Iceland time (though Jane did nap after London). The cats were VERY happy to see us!

Jane got an email partway home, that she had been "randomly selected" for COVID screening, which meant that we had to get up the next morning and immediately go find a testing facility. C'est la vie.

In the end, we drove the entire Ring Road plus another quarter turn and some side explorations, for some 3000 km in total. We also hiked A LOT, seemingly all uphill, to see some of the greatest natural sights Iceland had to offer. All in all one incredible trip, and we will definitely be back - TAKK FYRIR!

We saw swans everywhere in Iceland - and we finally got some pictures!

Our shuttle bus to the airport

Kingslayer at Keflavik!

Boarding by bus to planes on the Keflavik tarmac

Mountains of southern Greenland

ONE AWESOME TRIP!!!
 

Iceland Day 13 - Reykjavik

We got up early and made a final breakfast in the van of oatmeal and pressed coffee, before setting up the van for return. We turned the bed back into a table for the first time in two weeks, gathered up all the rental items, did the dishes and some cleaning, and got our suitcases and packs all ready for full mobility on foot.

Setting out from Grindavik, we covered the short distance to Hafnarfjordur in just over half an hour, circling around the block from Go Campers to fulfill the mandatory fuel fill. We dropped off the van about 1030am, well ahead of our noon deadline, and there were no issues. We also made some generous donations to the front office "sharing is caring" cabinet, including some Brennevin and sealed sausages that were immediately snapped up by some incoming campers!

Rather than taking the cheaper bus option, we opted for the more COVID-friendly taxi from Go Campers, which delivered us right to our hotel in downtown Reykjavik. Being still early, we had just hoped to drop our bags before walking the city.....but our room was already ready!

Free of encumbrances, we set out on foot to explore this very walkable city, from a very good central location. The weather was mainly overcast with the odd sprinkle of rain, but otherwise quite nice for wandering....and mostly flat! Other than a gradual incline up to the iconic Hallgrimskirkja church, it was a far cry from the steep (and long) mountain hikes of recent weeks.

Over the rest of the day, we made three trips out and around the downtown and harbourfront, including food stops, final souvenirs and a beer run. We settled in to the room for the night, with final luggage juggling to some Big Bang Theory and How I Met Your Mother. I also filled out our tax refund forms to be submitted at the airport, to reclaim the tax on a few larger purchases. One last night in Iceland!

She served us well!

Waiting for our taxi

Our hotel for the night - Hotel Reykjavik Centrum

Great room in a fantastic location

Walking the banks of the Tjornin behind City Hall

Harpa Concert Hall on the harbourfront

Sun Voyager sculpture

Reykjavik's most famous hot dog stand - meh!

Street Fun on Laugavegur


Dinner Snack from Reykjavik Chips


A nice stroll around the Old Harbour


Street Food lunch - fish and chips, and lobster soup

Rainbow Street on Skolavordustigur leading up to the church

Hallgrimskirkja


Leifur Eiriksson Monument

Troll guarding the gift shop

:)

Ingolfur Square near the hotel

Art around the harbour

Visitors add to the harbourfront art collection

They tell you how many parking spots are available!

Fierce Viking at the Saga Museum

ShakesBeer?

Velkomin!

Iceland Day 12 - Southwest

We left the campground early, and backtracked north to and through Hveragerdi, up into the hills beyond. From there, we began a 3.2 km hike UP and over the hills, on a sunny albeit windy morning. Our goal was the Reykjadalur, or "Valley of Steam", where you can soak in a geothermal river as it washes over you and on downstream.

It was another challenging hike, and seemed to go on forever, until finally the bathing area came into view. They have built boardwalks and a few rustic changing stations, which consist of some 4' panels to hide behind while otherwise getting changed in the open. There were already a few people there, despite our early start, but we managed to find a small pool to ourselves as some people were leaving.

We held towels up for each other to expand the "changeroom", before slipping into the warm water. I use the term literally, as Jane found the wooden stairs into the water quite slick and took a tumble. Luckily no major damage was done, and I was far more cautious entering the stream as a result of her advance scouting.

We soaked and enjoyed the surroundings for about twenty minutes - our spot had a deeper section and a small rock wall to rest against, and was warm - further upstream would have been hotter but also busier.

We quickly changed again and made our way back down, much quicker than the ascent. We also saw a group on horseback making their way up, which would have been a nicer way to climb....at least for the humans! By the time we got back to the van, the little coffee and gift shop at the parking lot was open, and we grabbed our first java after the four-hour hike.

Before leaving Hveragerdi, we grabbed hot dogs at the N1 and then a few supplies at the Bonus, before continuing south and back to Thorlakshofn. From there, we took the 427 westward along the coast, eventually passing the Fagradalsfjall volcano area which had been actively erupting shortly before our arrival. While it had suddenly been part of the itinerary when it started, it only erupted for a few weeks this week (versus more than six months last year) and was done before we got there.

Following a particularly windy drive, buffeting the van around the road, we stopped for the day in Grindavik. A nice lunch was in order at The Fish House - fish and chips for Jane, chicken salad for me - before finding the local campsite and setting up. Besides drying our bathing suits and towels in the sun (OK, wind), we also started to get the van in order as this was our last night before returning the rental. 

Jane crashed for an afternoon nap after the long morning hike. Dinner was, once again, ham on a fresh baguette....no sense making extra dishes to clean on the last night! 

Once there was actually someone there to pay (7pm), I paid cash for the campsite to try to use up some of our surplus kronur - the clerk had never seen such new and crisp bills before! (we ordered them from our bank in Canada before we left, but really never needed cash at any point)

The evening consisted of listening to music on the tiny speaker, and people watching the politics of the campground, including one couple who seemed to want a whole extra space be left beside them for their van awning despite a very full campground....and they never did use it! (though by morning, we saw that someone had squeezed in beside them anyway in a small rooftop car camper)

Of course, that is also UP.....it's ALWAYS up....

The Valley of Steam

Boiling mudpots on the way up

Up and up and up

Looking back at the van before we round the crest of the next hill

A very scenic hike at least!


Our changing station

Soaking it all in!


Set up by early afternoon at the Grindavik campground


A little video of the geothermal river experience!



Friday, September 16, 2022

Iceland Day 11 - Kvernufoss and Westman Islands

Leaving the Skogafoss campground, we made the quick jaunt to the nearby Skogar Museum - while the museum didn't open until 10am, we were mainly there for the walk behind waterfall Kvernufoss, which had been closed the first time around the Ring Road as it was being used as a film set.

We donned our rain gear (it was also starting to rain), and made the relatively short (20 minute) hike to another marvel - a powerful cascade tumbling over green rocks, with an ample ledge to walk behind. Being quite early, there were only two other people there, and we really soaked up the experience.

When we finally did leave, we drove the relatively short distance to Landeyahofn, where we caught the 1045am ferry Herjolfur to the Vestmannaeyjar (Westman Islands), a series of small and rugged islands off the south coast. 

We knew we could only spend a few hours over there, but considered it a scouting mission for next time. Just the views on the way in alone were worth the trip! It was also nice enough (and too busy inside) that we spent the entire crossing out on deck.

We docked in Heimay around 1130am, and went in search of the day's first coffee (and a cinnamon bun) at a nice local bakery. We visited the Sea Life Trust Beluga and Puffin sanctuary, which was also an aquarium of local sealife. After that, we walked around the town, then up the hill and down to some rugged cliffs with some glamping and golfing at the base.

We returned to the harbour and had a very quick lunch, as we watched our 2:30pm ferry come flying into the harbour - Jane had fish and chips, while I had chocolate cake and beer! The look on our server's face was priceless.

All in all, the islands were well worth a return visit - we only visited Heimay, given time constraints. All local tours (islands, puffins, whales, etc.) had also been fully booked for the day, likely due to the cruise ship that was already in town when we got there.

On the way back to the "mainland", we were in for a special treat - school children releasing baby puffins (pufflings) off the back of the ferry. Apparently, sometimes the young birds get distracted by the lights and fail to follow the adults out to sea. Icelandic schoolchildren are taught to round them up and then return them (properly) back to sea from headlands or the ferry.  (see videos below!)

Back at the van around 3:15pm, we headed west and made a stop at Hvolsvollur, where I grabbed some beer and then we checked out an art gallery cafe across the street, where we came away with a nice locally made pottery chalice. We carried on to Hveragerdi, where we had expected to camp, only to find the campground fully booked on a Saturday night.

Plan B was to head south about 20 minutes to the coast, where we camped instead in the rain at Thorlakshofn and enjoyed a quick dinner of boil in bag meals. A little while later, the rain abated and we were treated to a marvelous and FULL rainbow - we had been seeing rainbows pretty much every day during the trip, but this one certainly took the cake (my lunch notwithstanding).

Kvernufoss at dawn


Another walk behind waterfall!



Rain Gear to the Rescue!


Who cares about rain - we're walking behind a waterfall anyway!


Great way to start the day!

The walk back out to the van

Catching the ferry for the Westman Islands....and it's electric!


Looking back at the mainland....er, main island?

Approaching the Vestmannaeyjar

Nearing the opening for Heimay harbour

Really cool cliffs all the way in!



...and a nice cabin for a quiet getaway!

Heimay Harbour

Recuperating Puffins at the Puffin Hospital


Some local signage in Heimay

A nice walk up a hill to the edge of town!

Glamping with a view!

Set up for the night at Thorlakshofn


Quick dinner - chicken and rice, and beef and vegetable stew


Awesome rainbow over the campground


Two methods for releasing pufflings off the ferry!