Wednesday, May 21, 2025

Scotland - Oban

After dropping the keys back at the "keynest" convenience store, we made the short trek to the Queen Street train station just past George Square. As we awaited our train platform, we quaffed a much-needed coffee from a nearby stand.

What followed was a scenic train ride through Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park, as we wound our way westward through the hills to seaside Oban on the coast. The train split at Crianlarich, with our front two cars continuing on to Oban. Arriving in late morning, we quickly found baggage storage at West Coast Motors (tomorrow's bus) and caught a taxi to nearby Dunollie Castle.

One of our travelling companions was of Clan MacDougall, whose traditional seat lay at Dunollie. We toured the manor house and museum, and then hiked up the hill to the castle ruins for a panoramic view of the Sound and surrounding isles. While we enjoyed the manor and castle and video of the long history of the clan, including the original Irish Viking chieftan named Somerled, our MacDougall friend was in her glory. This stop on the trip had been specifically designed for her. The current clan head (Morag) was even in residence during our visit, and personally signed a copy of the clan history book our friend bought at the gift shop.

Oban is a great base camp to explore a number of offshore isles, notably Mull, Lismore and others. Alas, we were only here for a half day and one brief night. Next time! Leaving the castle, we made the pleasant walk back along the sea wall to town, stopping at the Oban Inn for lunch and drinks. I sampled my first haggis (along with neeps and tatties) washed down with a Tennant's, while Jane opted for fish and chips.

From there we booked into our lodging, the Lorne Apartment through an alley, up a turret and overlooking the main street. It was very nice, and once again we lamented that we only had one night to spend here. We reminded our friends not to unpack anything more than necessary, as we had a bus to catch in the morning.

While our companions explored the shopping and the nearby whisky distillery, we made the steep climb up the hill behind the apartment to a whole new world of quiet neighbourhoods overlooking Oban from above, as we wound our way up to McCaig's Tower. The "unfinished" tower was a wealthy man's philanthropic make-work project when local stonemasons were experiencing hard times, but certainly commands an outstanding view of the town and sea beyond. We also met an entitled tabby lazily guarding the premises.

Walking back a different way, we wandered further afield to grab dinner and a few sundries at the Morrison's grocery store before working our way back to the apartment. As nice as it was, we needed to spend a bit of time there as the four of us enjoyed our one evening chillaxing in Oban. A week into the trip, it was a good time for some down time.

Queen Street Train Station

The Big Board at Glasgow Queen Street

Boarding our train on Platform 7

Loch Lomond and The Trossachs from the train

Scottish countryside


Dunollie Castle just outside Oban


Panoramic view of the Sound of Mull and outer isles


Dunollie - the seat of Clan MacDougall



Views inside the castle ruins


More stunning scenery from Dunollie Castle


The road back to Oban (to the left) from the castle

Dunollie Castle from afar as we walk back to town

Scottish flag waving proudly

Lunch and drinks at the Oban Inn

Fish & Chips for Jane...

...and Haggis, Neeps and Tatties for Mike!

Busy Oban waterfront

Meanwhile, next door to our apartment...

Lorne Apartments right over main (George) street!

Oban from above as we climb up to McCaig's Tower

Inside McCaig's Tower

Scenic overlook of Oban and the Isles before we head back down


Scotland - Glasgow

Our day started with a pre-ordered taxi ride from the Obel apartment to the Stena ferry terminal - luckily our crazy driver knew the way well and sped us quickly through the industrial sprawl. We were way early as is our wont, but had pre-arranged a "coach and sail" with Hannon - you board a bus, it drives onto the Stena ferry, you get off the bus and enjoy the ferry crossing....then on the other side you get back off the bus and drive off. 

In this case, the coach would take us from Belfast in Northern Ireland, across the Irish Sea to Cairnryan in Scotland, and on to Glasgow. We didn't want to jinx anything until we actually touched soil on Scotland, given all the issues we have had trying to get to Scotland in the past. 

It was a big ferry, considerably larger than most we've been on, with a capacity of 660 cars. Given the limited public transit options on the Scotland side, it seemed like the best way to get to Glasgow. Moreover, our friends had never been on a ferry of any size, so it was an experience for them. We grabbed food, had a Guinness in the lounge, and took the opportunity to enjoy a calm crossing and two and a half hours on the high seas.

Once the coach drove off into Scotland, we had made it - though we had a quick passport security check before we cleared the terminal area. Roughly 24 years after trying to come to Scotland the first time (literally on 9/11 with the same friends) - and another attempt foiled by COVID - it was finally official!

A scenic two-hour tour up the west coast of Scotland followed as the bus meandered along the winding A77 on the way to Glasgow. Arriving at Buchanan Bus Station, we shouldered our packs and made the ten-minute trek through afternoon crowds to our accommodations for the next two nights.

After a quick stop at a nearby convenience store (and "keynest") to pick up the keys, we landed at 45 Mitchell, where we had a lovely penthouse apartment lined up. There was a great balcony on two sides with a panorama overlooking the downtown, and a close view of the iconic Lighthouse building (Charles Rennie Mackintosh) across the street. A nearby Tesco Express afforded us groceries.

For the next day and a half, we explored Glasgow on foot. Highlights included the Cathedral and neighbouring Necropolis cemetery, with a commanding view of the city. We met a nice local man walking his daughter's dog in the Necropolis, and strolled with him for a bit to absorb some local tidbits.

We also enjoyed shopping on the Buchanan Street pedestrian zone, and walking the downtown area around our apartment. We quickly found a suitable pub around the corner, enjoying The Horse Shoe both nights for many round of Tennant's. On the second night, we even spotted a low-key Pierce Brosnan enjoying a pint in casual garb whilst watching a football (soccer) game. 

I did make the mistake of admitting that Jane had some allergies in relation to the garlic bread we ordered at the pub - they were alerted when I asked them to make sure "no cheese". They take allergies VERY seriously at pubs in Glasgow. One of the bartenders produced a tablet that Jane had to read with all the ingredients and sign an electronic waiver and even then it took forever to get the garlic bread, because they had to clean down the entire kitchen first. Sigh. More time for beer.

Back at the apartment, we took a few last looks off the balcony and packed our re-jigged bags with added souvenirs, in anticipation of an early morning train off into the rugged Scottish lochs and hills. 

Our Hannon "Coach and Sail"

Boarding the Stena Superfast VII

Leaving the famed shipyards of Belfast....

Approaching Scotland....don't jinx it! Something could still happen!!!

Arriving in Cairnryan, Scotland

Crossing the River Clyde on the way into Glasgow

Great penthouse view!

Cool architecture

Timmy's....in Glasgow???

The Barony Hall

Glasgow Cathedral

Beautiful interior of the cathedral

Down to the lower vaults of the cathedral


Cathedral grounds

Entering the Necropolis!


Necropolis
MacFarlane!


The Dead have the best view in town...


The Cathedral from atop the Necropolis

Tolbooth Steeple on Argyle Street in the lower downtown

McLennan Arch into Glasgow Green


Walking along the Clyde

The old and the new along Clyde Street


Prince Consort Albert with his "traditional" hat in George Square

The Horse Shoe Pub near our apartment