The Beatings Will Continue Until Morale Improves...

East Coast 2026 - Halifax!

We arrived in Halifax, set to spend five exciting nights in the heart of the downtown. We got a great deal on a two-bedroom apartment at the Cameo Suites on Barrington, right in the thick of the action. Once we got the car parked nearby, we unloaded our stuff and started exploring in earnest.

Over the next several days, we wandered down the hill to the waterfront numerous times. We explored two different farmer's markets, including one right inside the iconic Alexander Keith's Brewery. We strolled the Harbourwalk under intense sun and I actually got a bit of a sunburn.....in Halifax in May! Jane found a few Cows locations and June found all the shops. We did a lot of walking, up a lot of hills....and made a few grocery and booze runs to nearby establishments to stock the apartment.

For shade breaks, we frequented a number of establishments in the vicinity to replenish our fluids and continue to sample the local cuisine. Durty Nelly's became a fast favourite, as did The Old Triangle. It didn't hurt that the Montreal Canadiens playoff push had the whole town in a hockey frenzy. We also enjoyed the more chill Bearly's as well as a few other places in the general area of our accommodations.

We took the Harbour Hopper tour, which winds up the streets up old town Halifax before crashing into the ocean between the casino and the naval dockyards, for a boat tour along the shore. We also did the Halifax ghost walk with Dusty, starting up at the Old Town Clock and working our way down to the waterfront by dark, with numerous stories and history along the way.

Of course, we had to tour The Citadel as well, the historic British fort perched atop the city complete with re-enactors in period costume. The Halifax Explosion of 1917 obviously also played prominently into several of our tours.

Leaving the Harrows to pub hop around the neighbourhood, we took the opportunity on a quiet Sunday morning to shoot off to Prince Edward Island for a quick visit with Kay and Geoff.....but we were back in Halifax by Monday night for a few more adventures in the wonderful city.

Crossing the MacDonald Bridge over The Narrows

Nova Scotia!

Great base camp at Cameo Suites on Barrington

One of our favourite pubs!

Drunken lampposts on the waterfront

Jane getting her Cows fix on numerous occasions!

Alexander Keith's!

Another night at Durty Nelly's

Harbour Hopper tour of land and sea

The waterfront....from the water!

Visiting the Citadel atop the hill

Old Town Clock to keep the soldiers punctual!

Touring the historic fort

Stirring bagpipes atop the fortress walls

Barracks

Bearly's House of Blues

Old Burying Ground cemetery

Halifax by Night - City Hall

East Coast 2026 - Peggy's Cove

Departing Lunenburg, we headed further east for Halifax but followed the shore to enjoy the next town up the road, the beautiful Mahone Bay. It was early in the morning so the sleepy town was just waking, but one could see spending a vacation or a retirement there as well.

We then opted for the very worthwhile detour to visit Peggy's Cove. Beyond the iconic lighthouse set atop epic slabs of granite, the village itself is also very beautiful and offers several galleries, gift shops and restaurants.

The sombre skies and stiff winds made for the perfect visit, as breakers crashed heavily along the rocks down below. Unlike previous visits, besides the signs warning people to stay off the black rocks, they had actually posted a security guard out there now too.

We enjoyed the sweeping vistas and crashing waves for a while, then ventured inland to explore the shops and take photos of the serene harbour, a stark contrast to the raging seas beyond.

We also arrived early enough in the season and the day, that it wasn't as busy as we had expected - though it was starting to pick up as we were leaving. Taking the back way to Halifax, we also stopped for lunch in West Dover and I enjoyed a great lobster roll overlooking the water at Shaw's Landing while Jane devoured some fish cakes.

Onward to Halifax!

The Bronco lands at Peggy's Cove

Danger Danger!

Iconic Canadian landscape under brooding skies

We were perfectly safe - much further back than the perspective would suggest!

Peggy's Cove village

Lobster roll at Shaw's Landing

Fish cakes and fries

Scenic West Dover and her fishing fleet

East Coast 2026 - Lunenburg

Our next stop in the adventure was the historic and quaint seaside town of Lunenburg, where we would spent two nights on the waterfront at the Rumrunner Inn. Once we got settled in, we set out to explore the rather hilly town on foot. We wandered up a street or two for some shopping, but mainly along our own Montague street for food and down to the gorgeous waterfront.

Lunenburg was settled in 1753 shortly following the settlement of Halifax, primarily by a large group of "foreign protestants" of German, Swiss and French descent. Despite previous French presence in the area, the town itself was laid out by the British in a colonial grid by planners in England, without regard for the steep terrain involved.

We walked the waterfront and soaked in the atmosphere, from the colourful and unique buildings to the boats, and the sweet smell of the sea. We walked up to the local farmer's market at the arena, and also discovered The Knot pub just a short distance away from our room. Great food, drinks and pub feel!

We enjoyed morning coffee on the wharf, and an evening historical walk up at the top of Gallows Hill, around the old cemetery beside the Lunenburg Academy and overlooking Back Harbour. We also walked around the bay to visit Lightship Brewery for some local brews, wood-oven pizza and beautiful views back on the Bluenose II and the town across the water.